The top of the world... or at least Malawi

Following a very relaxing week in Nhkata Bay we decided to head to Livingstonia. This is an area with a rich colonial history and being on the top of a mountain, fabulous views. It is however a little off the tourist circuit so can be difficult to get to. However, we were incredibly lucky and getting off the minibus at the turn off there was a truck waiting (to try and get some paying passengers) to go up the hill. It's about 15km which would be a very long walk up hill with packs on. The view from the top was jaw dropping, with mountains heading down to the lake. After winding our way up 20 hairpin bends we reached Mushroom Farm. Our room was a simple A-frame which was totally open on the side facing the view, absolutely stunning!!

The next day we walked the 8km into town where exploring all the sites and doing some shopping took about 1 hour (although it was interesting all the same) and it was quite strange seeing all these colonial buildings in Africa. We also walked to the waterfall, and found the cave where locals hid from slave traders (this is behind the falls, so a bit wet and muddy). It was a beatiful area and very different from anywhere else we've travelled in Africa.

Getting down again was a bit trickier and we ended up walking the whole way. In 3 and a half hours on the road we saw one car going downhill and it was full. By the end we were exhausted and collapsed at the bottom, without even enough energy to find ourselves a drink. Also, the passing minibuses were full so we ended up hitching - which was the best trip yet. We went with a local man in a very plush rental car, which even had seatbelts!!! We each had are own seat and only one bag around our feet, what luxury. He was incredibly nice and drove us all the way to our hotel (despite the fact this was one town further on than he was going) and refused to accept any money. Blissful.

Sun, swimming... but no salt

This is just a quick update to let you know about the last week we've spent in Malawi. We are in a beautiful place called Nhkata Bay on Lake Malawi. We weren't sure when we left home if we would swim in the lake due to bilharizia but supposedly none as ever been found in this area so we are making full use of the lake. We are staying in our own chalet which is right on the water so we are lulled to sleep by the sound of waves lapping against the rocks each night. In the morning we sit on our balcony eating breakfast and enjoying the view. There is good snorkelling just by the room and we really feel like we're on holiday here... and are dreading the next bus trip so we keep extending our stay. It's also the first country that feels cheap!! So in a week we have only spent $150 for the two of us and we are in the nicest room yet, and have been partaking of the massive buffet dinners each night. About 100m in front of Mayoka (where we are staying) there is a raft, so everyone just swims our there lies in the sun to dry off and swims back to shore. What a life!

The best laid plans

We had planned this morning to catch the minibus to Chipata spend a night and head to Malawi tomorrow using two taxis and a minibus... but that's not quite what happened. To catch the minibus you have to leave at 4:45am, which meant waking up at 4am to pack up the tent. This went well, and we avoided the hippos who were still munching. But, before we made it into town where the minibus leaves from we ran into a ute (lorry - sized) going to Chipata leaving immediately - so the 6 of us who were heading that way jumped into the back and were on our way. The ute makes money by giving lifts to people so we soon had around 15 people in the back and were partially deafened from the horn which he used to announce his presence. We were however in Chipata before 9am much earlier than expected, so decided to press on for Malawi (It would have been even earlier but we got stopped by the police, so it took some time to come to a suitable bribe to get the car keys back).

We took a share taxi to the border with 4 people on the back seat, 2 on the passengers seat and 2 in the drivers! After an easy border crossing we decided to ask the tourists who were ahead of us in the queue for a lift. So rather than another taxi and minibus we were driven in what felt like absolute luxury!! I also began to learn Afrikaans from the 4 year old boy I was sitting beside who couldn't understand why I couldn't talk properly.

Next stop Nhakata Bay... we think! (Gosh, up to date... been awhile since that's been the case)