Day 1 – The flight over was a short 3.5 hours and was mainly uneventful. Admittedly coming into land getting to about 4 metres above the runway and suddenly climbing steeply was a little unusual and worrying particularly once the air hostess announced “I’m sure the pilot will let us know what happened as soon as he’s able”. We were met by both the travel agent who had booked our domestic flights and the lady from our accommodation at the airport. We stayed that night at Fu’amota Transit Lodge where our sleep was interrupted by dogs, pigs and roosters.
Day 2 – Prior to our flight we were offered an impromptu tour to the Kings Country Residence to warm up someone’s van. After that we were off to the domestic airport where we avoided stepping on any of the baby chicken’s as we got onto the scales to be weighed for the flight. We were given seats 1A and 1B which meant we had the perfect view of the pilot SMSing and chatting on his mobile during the flight. The view was absolutely stunning, with gorgeous islands and atolls. Getting off at Vava’u and going for a quick walk around town we were struck by the number of pigs, piglets, chickens and dogs with the occasional goat or horse thrown in. We settled in to Port Wine Guest House run by Lu’isa and her son Tai after an enthusiastic “Jason!” when they saw us at the gate. We then decided to climb to the top of Mt Talau to have a look at the view. We managed to find the path to the top ok, but then following the big red arrows we realised they did not point to the path down at all so we scrambled and slid down to the bottom.
Day 3 – We slept much better last night now being used to the animal noises…. However, we were still awakened by the police driving around the streets using a loud speaker to tell the locals to clean up and lock up their pigs in preparation for the Asia Pacific Summit (not that anyone took any notice). After a breakfast of bananas and mangoes from the garden where we were staying we decided to go for a walk. We made it as far as a Veimumuni Cave with a lake where locals supposedly go swimming. We sat and enjoyed the view before heading back to the market for some cheap fruit and vegetables.
Day 4 – We went out to try and look for whales, but instead went exploring the various caves and islands. Lunch was on a beautiful deserted island, where we also went for a quick snorkel. After lunch we headed over to Mariner’s Cave where Jason had no problem diving through the 4m tunnel. I on the other hand took about 5 attempts before I was willing to go through (on my back walking along the roof with my hands) and it was a lot further than I was expecting!! Inside it was eerie, with all the light provided by the underwater opening. Going out was much easier as I’m sure the tunnel had shrunk in length. The snorkelling around the cave was beautiful, with amazingly clear water going down 50m. The other cave we visited was Swallow’s Cave with more amazing snorkelling.
Day 5 – Today we walked to the Tongan Beach Resort. Along the way we picked mangoes, tiny tangerines and saw pawpaw, taro, breadfruit and numerous other edible delights. We intended to have a snorkel, but as the weather was a bit miserable we just enjoyed the view and relaxed for awhile. On the way back we kept our eyes out for a taxi, but instead a mini bus stopped and picked us up… no one on the bus seemed to speak much English but they waved away our wallets so we weren’t sure if it was a bus or just a helpful, friendly local.
Day 6 – Today we kayaked 16km… and got towed 2! This sounded a nice relaxing way to spend the day… and it started out that way. Whenever our arms got tired we just drifted along in the right direction. After a couple of hours we stopped at Lotuma Island which had some of the best snorkelling of the entire trip. There were huge schools of fish, fat squidgy pink starfish and an abundance of colourful coral. We continued kayaking as far as Mala Island even though the last 1km felt like 16 all by itself. We were going into the wind and current with waves splashing over the edge of the kayak and threatening to fill it with water (at least until we hastily attached the skirts); everytime one of us slacked off for a moment we started going backwards so that by the time we made it to Mala Island we were ready for a sleep rather than the planned swim. The way back was alright until we turned into Port Refuge Harbour at which point we were again going into the wind and current. Luckily for us the harbour was dotted with yachts so we picked one and paddled with all our strength before grabbing on for a rest. Out came Mark – our kayaking angel – who saw our exhausted faces and took pity on us giving us a tow for the last 2km. Of course we then had to walk back to town from the kayak rental place but luckily after only walking 100m a car stopped and gave us a lift the rest of the way. After grabbing some cheap burritos for dinner we collapsed sunburnt and exhausted.
Days 7 and 8 – After yesterday’s exploits we took advantage of the rain and spent two days chatting to Lu’isa, Tai and the other guests in between reading, eating and sleeping.
Day 9 – This morning we were told our flight was delayed by 2 hours, which was thankfully accurate and we made it to Ha’apai safely. After some investigations Craig from Mariner’s Café offered to give us a lift to Uoleva Island. Anna-Maria who we had met in Vava’u tagged along. On the island we were greeted by Sonny (the owner) and Jane (the only other guest who was very grateful to not be totally alone on the island). Jane was someone who had posted a question on the thorntree to which I had replied and she remembered my reply word for word and every other detail about me!! The island was beautiful and dinner was delicious (fried breadfruit – yum!). We ended the night with a campfire under the stars.
Day 10 – Jason and I went off by ourselves to spend the day reading, snorkelling and relaxing. No one in sight and the perfect idyllic tropical paradise.
Day 11 – After a rather undignified exit from the island at 8:30am we settled into Evaloni’s guesthouse in Pangai. We walked across the island to a beach on the other side. On the way back there were two guys collecting coconuts so we asked if we could have one and they gave us two! Each with about 1 litre of juice!!
Day 12 – We had another attempt at whale watching today, but it turned into a day of sailing and snorkelling. The boat was a reasonable sized catamaran with two hammocks strung up between the hulls. As no one else seemed interested Jason and I took them over and were enjoying dozing as we motored leisurely down the coast. Then the sails went up the boat sped up and the first waves started crashing into, onto and over us! Lunch was of Ha’anga Island where there was some amazing coral reefs and it was a great place to snorkel.
Day 13 – Today we experienced true Tongan time as we waited and waited and waited at the airport wondering if we were going to make it back to Tongatapu today or not. Eventually we did and settled into the Heilala Holiday Lodge for a bit more privacy for our last couple of nights.
Day 14 – Island tour! We stopped at all the famous sights – blow holes, Ha’amonga trilithon, ancient terraced tombs, flying fox sanctuary and of course the famous multi-headed coconut tree!! We also spent the day trying to work out the Tongan number plates. They all start with a letter eg. C (for car), L (large vehicle), R (Rental), T (taxi).
