We had delayed our departure from Cusco by a couple of days hoping that the protests we had been hearing about between Cusco and Puno would cease. But, they didn’t. From our research it appeared we had two options when it came to bus travel. A day time bus that was taking an alternative route and thus avoiding the protests or a night time bus that took the main route, but assured us buses were being allowed through at night. Eventually we bit the bullet, flipped a coin and purchased two tickets on the day time bus. Our bus was due to leave at 8am so we dutifully turned up at 7:45am only to be told that no, the bus was not leaving. We were informed that not only had the protests not resolved as we hoped but that they were ‘muy fuerte’ much stronger and the protestors had damaged the bridge that the alternative route buses were taking.
We ummed and ahhed and approached every bus company, only one was still running. Not sure whether ‘Tour Peru’ was telling us the truth or just collecting money with no intention of running a bus we decided to risk the ‘Libertadad’ bus instead. It was due to leave at 9:30am so not too long to wait. We started talking to our fellow passengers, most of whom were gringos – was it a bad sign that the locals weren’t taking the route at all? Ok, there were about 5 locals on the bus, but normally the ratio would be reversed. Whilst we waited we held the annual Cusco balance bar championships of which Lee was the undisputed winner. At 10am, half an hour after we were due to depart we finally spotted our bus easily identifiable by the graffiti plastered over the sides indicating it had made it through the road block at least once. The bus promptly pulled up onto the curb 100m away and we watched as animated discussions between various staff members were held around the bus. We can only assume they were debating whether to actually go or not… or how much extra ‘danger money’ the bus driver wanted to go.
Eventually all demands were met and the bus actually pulled up ready for us to board and after only 3 hours or so of waiting we actually started moving. 2 minutes later we promptly stopped again and a rumour was passed around the Spanish speaking passengers that we actually weren’t going at all and were now heading back to the terminal. 5 minutes later the rumour had changed to we all had to pay a 1 sole bribe to get through the roadblock. Neither of these were accurate and after filling up with diesel we actually got on the road. Just as I was comfortably dosing off cries went up along the bus – are we falling off a cliff? Are we being attacked by the protestors? In reality the luggage was trying to make a break for it. One of the doors had popped open as we turned the corner and our luggage was strewn for 100m down the main highway. Luckily we picked it all up again and set off again, now not only worrying about the roadblock but about whether our luggage would still be there at the other end.
Around 1 and a half hours outside of Cusco we hit the first rocks and continued to swerve from one side of the road to the other avoiding the boulders for about another half an hour when the bus stopped and the engine was turned off. Then the rumour mill started up again. We could walk for four hours to the next town where there may be a bus we could possibly catch. Our bus was going to wait until nightfall and hope to get through the roadblock then. We were all going back to Cusco to get our money back. Most of the bus were voting for the 3rd option, whilst the driver seemed keenest on option 2. A few energetic types wanted to walk it, but when you’re only 2 hours into a 12 hour drive and don’t know how far it will be until you find another bus walking was not the top option for most people. After a couple of hours though there was excitement, movement and we were all told to grab our bags and start walking.
This is the moment when we found out Tour Peru had told us the truth – the bridge was damaged. Although that seems a little like understatement to me. The bridge in question was just before the main roadblock and it was obvious the protestors were not letting anyone through. To prevent the use of the alternative route they had taken the simple measure of ripping up the wooden planks that made up the bridge. The metal struts underneath were still there so that’s what we walked across with all our baggage in tow. Feeling like laden donkeys we tight-roped across. It turned out our bus driver had made a deal with another bus driver from Copacabana to swap passengers and pay some compensation. So after only about 1km of walking we were able to jump on another bus and wait to see how far it would get us.
After 5 minutes we passed a bus that had not made it, turning one of the tight corners the undercarriage had separated from the rest of the bus and as we listened to the rattles and remembered that the front of our bus was missing we were not filled with confidence. The alternative route was not able to be used by the bigger buses and we soon found out why. The conductor was in and out of the bus helping the driver do three point turns around corners, dodge rocks, dodge the edge of the cliff and avoid driving into the 2m holes that the protestors had dug in the road. By 5pm we were stopped again. We thought just to pick up passengers, until we saw quite how many engine parts were being removed by the local mechanic. We spent a couple of hours watching the drunks in the pub, buying some extra food supplies and trying to find a bathroom to use. We watched as tour buses went past on their way to Cusco, with particular trepidation for the ‘Time Seniors Tour’ – picturing old ladies with walking sticks trying to maneuver across the metal struts of the bridge in the dark.
It was also starting to get cold and we appreciated the bag with all our clothes we had put on the bus. By the time we arrived in Puno we were wearing 4 jumpers each, a beanie, gloves and using our sarongs for blankets – we were still cold!! It felt like being back in Banff but without appropriate clothing. So after a delayed start, roadblocks, escaping luggage, a broken down bus and 9 hours of driving along bumby, windy dirt roads occasionally going over some of the rocks or into a ditch left by the protestors we arrived in Puno at 4am. So what should have been a 6 hour journey under normal circumstances took a chilly 20 hours. Now, we know we’re in South America.
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